like to use a nursery. When you do raised bed gardening, you can easily control the soil type. Your bed warms up faster in spring. You will have fewer weeds and it will be easier to remove those that do appear. The soil will not be compacted like an underground bed. But there's a downside: You have to figure out how to fill a tall garden bed. It seems daunting! Whether you're using native soil or a soil mix, a mixture of soil and compost, or something else, we'll discuss your options. There are many things you can do to fill your garden raising bed!The following content also has some reference value for raised garden beds.
Before you can start planning, you need to decide what your bed will actually be used for. After all, some plants have shallower roots than others. For example, the average red radish needs very little depth, while white radishes need only a few feet of soil.
If you have an idea of the root depth you will grow in each container, you can customize the fill material. For example, one only needs 6-8 "of good quality soil to have a dedicated bed of leafy greens. Soil or other materials can be used under it to prove its volume. But carrot growers need at least a foot and a half of good soil. Drought-tolerant plants usually have deep root systems. These deeper roots allow the plant to find the water it needs at greater depths.
The higher your garden bed is, the more material you'll need to fill it. For example, the round high metal raised bed we sell in our online store has a diameter of 38 ", which is a few inches over 3 feet. It is 29 "deep. You can get about 8 square feet of planting space above ground. But you'd need 18 cubic feet of soil to fill it.
Because you're putting the best soil on the surface, whatever's underneath needs to get rid of the excess water. Avoid using materials such as rocks at the bottom of raised beds, as this may create an artificial water level that can interfere with good drainage. For raised garden beds, drainage is essential.
What do organic materials consist of? A lot of things!
Dry old wood makes a suitable base layer, as it will decompose under the soil. The wood also retains some moisture, while allowing excess water to drain away easily.It can take years for old branches or small logs to break down, so keep that in mind. For a while, you'll want to avoid planting the deepest vegetables in a woody bed and opt for shallow-rooted plants instead. Using wood in this way is a variation of a technique called hugelkultur.
Other garden waste can also serve as a good base. Grass clippings, dried leaves or leaf mold, other plant trims, and the like can fill the bottom of your bed. These quickly break down into the soil, increasing its organic content. However, as they break down, their height will decrease and you will see clear signs of falling soil water levels at the end of the season. This is still a great way to start with a brand new lifting bed, as you can continue the soil building afterwards.Hasn't your compost pile broken down yet? Throw unfinished compost under the bed. It's going to continue to decompose inside. You can mix some local garden soil with it if you want, but it's not necessary. These lower layers are also a good place to bury your bokashi by spreading grass clippings and other garden waste over them before adding soil.
Now that your base is filled and you're ready to add your growing layer, it's time to think about what you really want to plant. This is the top layer of your garden bed, no matter what filling material you choose. It is from this upper layer that your plants get most of their nutrients and water.
A common soil mixture that raises is called a Merle mixture. The mixture consists of equal parts mixed compost, peat moss and coarse vermiculite. This mixed method works well for most raised beds, but only if the surface of the raised bed is well drained. If you are building raised beds out of concrete or hard clay, you may want to choose a mixture that drains better. The addition of perlite to this mixture helps to improve drainage. If you'd rather use something sustainable, rice husks are a good alternative to perlite. Every fall, I gather as many fallen leaves as I can, shred them with my lawnmower, and make a deep leaf mulch on any inactive bed. In winter, the worms in my soil break down a lot of the leaves and it creates a lovely, moist soil surface that my plants love! Leaf mold like this is one of the best organic additions you can make to your garden bed.
Consider adding lasagna to your high bed in the fall. Make sure you put the green, fresh material between the brown, dry material. For example, alfalfa hay, vegetable scraps, or grass clippings are green, while dry straw, fine wood chips, or dry leaves are brown. Start with a coat of brown, then a coat of green and, if you like, a sprinkle of fertilizer on top. Repeat this layer until you reach the top of the bed. You can even stack it slightly above the bed surface. By spring, you'll have a lovely surface to plant on that will help you fill out your bed. Don't want to try composting in your garden bed? it doesn't matter You can add additional soil and compost as needed in the coming year. I like to add coconut shell or peat moss for extra moisture. If I need more drainage, I add perlite or rice husk. Using wood chip mulch during the growing season acts like a kind of compost. Over time, the fine wood chip mulch breaks down, increasing the volume of the soil. They also seep into the soil, providing additional drainage.
I hope I've given you some inspiration to make your raised bed even bigger. I know it's a challenge, but those big beds are worth it!